Graz is the second largest city in Austria with a history dating back at least 900 years. The mix of architectures in the city centre ranges from the Middle Ages to the present day. The River Mur splits the city and hills surround the valley in which Graz sits. A splendid view over the city can be had from the raised Schlossberg area, reachable by a long climb up stairs or a more relaxed journey on the little shuttle train. The Schlossberg restaurant mentioned below is a good place to sit and enjoy said view.
However, down in the streets and avenues of the city itself are some splendid bars and pubs, notably along Färbergasse, where the bars spill out into the street and into little squares including Gockenspielplatz at one end, home of the highly recommended Glöckl-Bräu bar. Other bar areas are around the main railway station at Jakominiplatz.
Glöckl-Bräu, Gockenspielplatz 2
This central Graz bar has a largish beer yard at the front and a rather small bar inside. There are also indoor dining areas upstairs and down for when it rains. Its uniqueness comes from its own branded beers brewed exclusively for them by the Puntigam Brewery. The Glöckl-Bräu pilsner is a 5.5% lightly coloured lager with a slightly sweet taste. Better is the unfiltered Glöckl Zwicki at 5.4%, a light very cloudy beer, strongly hopped and very refreshing. Both of these are served direct from a wooden cask on the bar. Also on draught are the 4.8% Reininghaus Pils and 5.4% Schneider Weisse. Two strong bottled beers are also available – the 8.2% Schneider Weisse Tap 6 Weizenstarkbier and the 12% Aventinus Weizen-Eisbock.
Gösser Bräu, Neutorgasse 48
This beer hall is the best place to sample all the wares from the local Gösser brewery, including their seasonal specials such as the 7.2% Maibock, a Belgian style lager with a mix of flavours vying for attention. The 5.7% Dunkles Zwickl unfiltered beer is also recommended, though more a muddy brown colour than the darkness one would expect from a dunkel. If the large downstairs area was not enough, there is an upstairs lounge and restaurant and a beer garden at the back. The kitchen interior is viewable from the downstairs bar, so customers can watch their food being cooked.
Schlossberg Restaurant Bar, Am Schloßberg 7
Overlooking the city, this restaurant has a view to die for, and in the evening diners can watch the sun set over the mountains. The restaurant itself serves three local draught beers, two branded from the Gösser Brewery – a bland light coloured lager and a nicer darker beer with a distinct caramel taste – and Reininghaus Jahrgangs Pils (also brewed by Gösser), which is slightly malty with a lovely aroma. They also serve the bottled Ennistaire Schnee Weiße, a 5% fruity and cloudy wheat beer. The best views are from the terrace bar above the restaurant where sadly, on the beer front, Heineken dominates.
Stockwerk, Jakominiplatz 18
An upstairs jazz pub, this strangely hairpin shaped bar has occasional live music with the music hall also used for dance lessons in between. The only draught beer comes from the Graz Puntigamer brewery, and is a reasonable pilsner with a malty body. Bottled beers from Gösser and Paulaner are also available.
Molly Malone, Färbergasse 15
This narrow, long Irish bar has Guinness, Kilkenny and Magners cider on draught as well as Austrian lager Hirter, a bitter-sweet light coloured beer. A large screen shows sports and a lovely little snug sits at the back of the pub.
Bräukeller, Keplerstraße 104
A small beer garden at the front leads down a short flight of stairs to a tiled-floored bar with tables and chairs for diners and stools at the bar. On draught is Salzburger Stiegl, a refreshing and slightly hoppy pilsner. A limited selection of bottled beers is also available. Live music provides entertainment on some evenings.
Olympia, Keegasse 5
A small outdoor drinking area at the front leads into a twee café bar serving Murauer Pils on draught, which is a little sickly sweet but drinkable. The L-shaped bar is brightly lit with a Greek theme to the pictures and ornaments. Unsurprisingly, the food is also Greek. Live music happens occasionally. The Thai restaurant next door serves Puntigamer beer.
More About Graz
Graz has a small airport about 10km south of the city from where the centre can be reached by train or bus, though a taxi will cost less then €20. The city itself has a tram network for those not keen on walking. At the centre of the city is Hauptplatz, a square with statues and the odd market stall and street performer. Schmedgasse, which leads south from Hauptplatz, has some bars that may be worth exploring though not tested on this review.
Steve Rogerson - Steve Rogerson is a UK-based writer specialising in television, technology, sports and beer.
Join the Conversation